Robert Parker: "2005 årgangen er den beste jeg har smakt på 30 år"
01.05.08
Robert Parker har hatt sitt årlige gjensyn med 2005 årgangen i Bordeaux og bekrefter det han har sagt om denne superårgangen. Vi gir deg hele hans artikkel - på engelsk - med hans endelige smaksnotater på de 2005 vinene vi har i vår mai 2008-katalog.
Denne artiklen sto først på trykk i The Wine Advocate i april 2008-utgaven:
The Price of Glory and Greatness: 2005 Red Bordeaux from the bottle
Tasting the 2005 red wines from the bottle, many of them three or four times, confirmed that this is the greatest vintage produced during my 30-year career. Some of my earlier reservations concerning the tannin levels in the northern Médocs were completely resolved by the tastings I conducted between March 22 and April 1, 2008. A great majority of the wines are far superior from bottle than they were from cask, confirming the quality of this remarkable vintage.
As most consumers are already aware, prices are at record levels for such young wines, but the real values are not found in the first-growths or many of the classified-growths, rather they are found in the wines I have written about in a separate article called "Bordeaux's Big Little Wines." These are some of the finest wine bargains of the world, and quality for unheralded, less prestigious terroirs continues to merit significant consumer support. At the same time, the top end offerings from the most renowned appellations and terroirs are likely to become primarily museum pieces given their already astonishing price climbs.
Perhaps the most amazing revelation in my tastings was how sweet the tannins have become. Combined with the wines' concentration levels, remarkable precision as well as freshness, it augers well for wines that will last for an incredibly long time. Yet I believe many wines will be drinkable earlier than my barrel tastings suggested.
Believe it or not, most of the ratings that follow are on the conservative side, and I look forward to revisiting many of these 2005s in 5-10 years. I would not be surprised if they are even better then than the following laudatory comments suggest.
About Prices
Now that the 2005s are in bottle, prices will continue to rise, as hard as that may be to believe given present day values. I suspect the prices quoted in this report, which were arrived at by averaging prices from six major retailers, will look low as the world continues to clamor for what is left of the 2005 inventory. For the American market, the prices are especially exacerbated by the weak dollar and our sub-prime crisis. Nothing short of a worldwide economic collapse will bring prices for the 2005s down.
-Robert Parker
2005 Goulee
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A Bordeaux Blend Dry Red Table wine from
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Medoc, Bordeaux, France
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Source
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Reviewer
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Rating
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Maturity
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Current (Release) Cost
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Wine Advocate # 176
Apr 2008
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Robert Parker
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89
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Drink 2008 - 2022
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$27-$42 (26)
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Proprietor Michel Reybrie and his winemaker, Jean-Guillaume Prats, have fashioned a brilliant blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot. The dark purple-hued 2005 reveals a sumptuous bouquet of licorice, black currants, black olives, smoke, and damp earth. Fleshy and supple-textured with good tannin as well as decent acidity, this seriously-endowed, complex effort can be consumed over the next 12-14 years.
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2005 Talbot
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Talbot ;
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</script> "http://www.chateau-talbot.com/")
A Bordeaux Blend Dry Red Table wine from
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St Julien, Bordeaux, France
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Source
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Reviewer
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Rating
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Maturity
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Current (Release) Cost
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Wine Advocate # 176
Apr 2008
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Robert Parker
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90
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Drink 2010 - 2020
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$47-$100 (60)
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A strong effort for Talbot, the 2005 is more showy and forward than most wines of this vintage. While there is plenty of tannin, it is sweet and well-concealed behind an intriguing bouquet of sweet herbs, licorice, smoked game, black currants, and cherries. This fleshy, medium to full-bodied St.-Julien exhibits a silky sweetness to its texture and tannins. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020+.
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2005 Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux
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Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux
A Bordeaux Blend Dry Red Table wine from
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Margaux, Bordeaux, France
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Source
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Reviewer
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Rating
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Maturity
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Current (Release) Cost
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Wine Advocate # 176
Apr 2008
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Robert Parker
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91
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Drink 2008 - 2023
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$80-$150 (70)
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Margaux's second wine gets better with each vintage. The 2005 Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux (200,000 bottles produced) is an equal part blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with a hefty alcohol content. Fleshy, opulent, and nearly decadent, with terrific fruit, a creamy texture, and supple tannin, it can be enjoyed over the next 12-15+ years.
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2005 Montrose
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Montrose
A Bordeaux Blend Dry Red Table wine from
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St Estephe, Bordeaux, France
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Source
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Reviewer
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Rating
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Maturity
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Current (Release) Cost
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Wine Advocate # 176
Apr 2008
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Robert Parker
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95
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Drink 2020 - 2040
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$120-$180 (120)
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The 2005 Montrose is an exceptionally tannic, broodingly backward offering displaying a dense ruby/purple color along with a provocative perfume of crushed rocks, flowers, cassis, black raspberries, and blueberries. It continues to add weight and richness, good traits considering the substantial, forbiddingly high tannin levels and zesty acidity. If you are over the age of fifty, this backward, powerful wine will probably be more enjoyable to your descendants. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2040+
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2005 Lynch Bages
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Lynch Bages
A Bordeaux Blend Dry Red Table wine from
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Pauillac, Bordeaux, France
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Source
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Reviewer
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Rating
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Maturity
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Current (Release) Cost
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Wine Advocate # 176
Apr 2008
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Robert Parker
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91
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Drink 2008 - 2028
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$88-$182 (95)
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This outstanding effort is slightly lighter, more streamlined and delicate than followers of Lynch Bages have come to expect after such great vintages as 1982, 1989, 1990, 1996, and 2000. A deep ruby/purple hue is accompanied by a classic Medoc nose of tapenade, roasted herbs, licorice, cedar, black currants, and damp earth. Medium-bodied with moderate tannin, sweet fruit, and surprising softness as well as forwardness for a 2005 northern Medoc, it can be drunk now and over the next 20+ years.
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2005 Leoville-Barton
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Leoville-Barton
A Bordeaux Blend Dry Red Table wine from
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St Julien, Bordeaux, France
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Source
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Reviewer
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Rating
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Maturity
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Current (Release) Cost
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Wine Advocate # 176
Apr 2008
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Robert Parker
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94
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Drink 2020 - 2065
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$140-$250 (135)
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Another prodigious, but brutally tannic, offering from the affable Anthony Barton, the inky/blue/black-hued 2005 Leoville Barton exhibits a sensational perfume of charcoal, burning embers, underbrush, cedar, creme de cassis, and subtle toasty oak. Painfully concentrated (much like the 2000 was at the same stage), with full body, admirable purity, and several boatloads of muscular tannin, this St.-Julien is built for 50-60 years of cellaring. Its purity and precision are typical of today's winemaking, but Barton is certainly not making a wine for near-term gratification. This is another 2005 that will require enormous patience. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2065.
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2005 Giscours
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Giscours
A Bordeaux Blend Dry Red Table wine from
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Margaux, Bordeaux, France
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Source
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Reviewer
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Rating
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Maturity
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Current (Release) Cost
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Wine Advocate # 176
Apr 2008
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Robert Parker
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91
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Drink 2010 - 2025
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$57-$100 (65)
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This forward-styled 2005 possesses a dense ruby/purple color in addition to a big, sweet bouquet of roasted herbs, fudge, espresso, figs, and cherry jam. Opulent, even decadent, with low acidity, but high glycerin and fruit extract as well as a flamboyant fleshiness, this is a stunningly impressive, hedonistic, savory Margaux to enjoy between 2010-2025.
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2005 Domaine de Chevalier
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Domaine de Chevalier
A Bordeaux Blend Dry Red Table wine from
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Pessac Leognan, Bordeaux, France
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Source
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Reviewer
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Rating
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Maturity
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Current (Release) Cost
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Wine Advocate # 176
Apr 2008
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Robert Parker
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92
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Drink 2014 - 2030
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$34-$150 (60)
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Perhaps the finest wine made at this estate in many years (no doubt due to the influence of wine consulting guru Stephane Derenoncourt), the 2005 is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest primarily Merlot with tiny portions of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. A dark ruby/purple hue is followed by a classic Graves bouquet of charcoal, graphite, creosote, smoked herbs, sweet black cherries, and spice box. The wine is elegant on the attack, but fills out beautifully with a multilayered, rich mouthfeel, silky tannins, and a plush, opulent finish. This brilliant claret may turn out to be even better than my score suggests. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2030+.
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2005 Carbonnieux Blanc
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Carbonnieux
A Bordeaux Blanc Blend Dry White Table wine from
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Pessac Leognan, Bordeaux, France
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Source
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Reviewer
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Rating
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Maturity
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Current (Release) Cost
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Wine Advocate # 176
Apr 2008
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Robert Parker
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93
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Drink 2008 - 2023
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$35-$60 (50)
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Beautiful aromas of white peaches, crushed rocks, candle wax, and lemon rind along with a touch of quince emerge from this medium-bodied, crisp, flavorful effort. Excellent acidity as well as a long finish suggest it will drink well for 10-15+ years.
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2005 Bahans-Haut-Brion
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Bahans-Haut-Brion
A Bordeaux Blend Dry Red Table wine from
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Pessac Leognan, Bordeaux, France
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Source
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Reviewer
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Rating
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Maturity
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Current (Release) Cost
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Wine Advocate # 176
Apr 2008
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Robert Parker
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89
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Drink 2008 - 2023
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$55-$102 (70)
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The second wine, the 2005 Bahans-Haut-Brion, is a fruit-forward, deliciously soft, round, stylish offering possessing hints of figs, plums, black currants, cherries, and minerals. Soft, with supple tannin, it is ideal for drinking over the next 12-15 years. By the way, in 2007, this cuvee's name will be changed to Le Clarence de Haut-Brion.
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2005 Le Petit Mouton
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Le Petit Mouton
A Bordeaux Blend Dry Red Table wine from
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Pauillac, Bordeaux, France
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Source
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Reviewer
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Rating
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Maturity
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Current (Release) Cost
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Wine Advocate # 176
Apr 2008
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Robert Parker
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88
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Drink 2008 - 2016
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$74-$133 (55)
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An excellent second wine, the 2005 Le Petit Mouton exhibits soft, lush, subtle herb-infused black currant fruit along with notions of licorice, smoke, and burning embers. Enjoy this well-made effort over the next 7-8 years.
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2005 Pichon-Longueville Baron
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Pichon-Longueville Baron
A Bordeaux Blend Dry Red Table wine from
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Pauillac, Bordeaux, France
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Source
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Reviewer
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Rating
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Maturity
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Current (Release) Cost
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Wine Advocate # 176
Apr 2008
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Robert Parker
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94
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Drink 2015 - 2035
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$137-$232 (145)
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As usual, this superb Pauillac possesses an inky/blue/black color in addition to a big, sweet nose of graphite, charcoal, burning embers, black currant liqueur, and toasty vanillin from new oak casks. Full-bodied with high but sweet, well-integrated tannins, the 2005 Pichon Baron is more backward than the blockbuster 2003 or prodigious 2000. Nevertheless, it is a superb effort whose power, length, and tannic structure suggest it should be at its peak between 2015-2035.
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2005 Clerc Milon
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Clerc Milon
A Bordeaux Blend Dry Red Table wine from
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Pauillac, Bordeaux, France
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Source
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Reviewer
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Rating
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Maturity
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Current (Release) Cost
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Wine Advocate # 176
Apr 2008
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Robert Parker
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92
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Drink 2014 - 2030
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$60-$100 (62)
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Clerc-Milon's 2005 has moved ahead of its stablemate, d'Armailhac. A blend of nearly equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon (48%) and Merlot (40%), and the rest Cabernet Franc, it exhibits plenty of charcoal, roasted coffee, smoke, blackberry, and cassis notes along with a meaty-like character to its flavors and texture. Full-bodied with surprisingly high tannin as well as gorgeous depth and a multidimensional mouthfeel, this stunning Pauillac should be at its finest between 2014-2030.
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2005 Le Petit Cheval
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Le Petit Cheval
A Bordeaux Blend Dry Red Table wine from
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St Emilion, Bordeaux, France
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Source
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Reviewer
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Rating
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Maturity
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Current (Release) Cost
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Wine Advocate # 176
Apr 2008
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Robert Parker
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89
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Drink 2008 - 2018
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$115-$216 (140)
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Cheval Blanc's second wine, the 2005 Le Petit Cheval, possesses some of the character of its bigger sibling. Revealing a slight green streak among the cranberry and black cherry fruit along with medium body and a soft, plush texture, it is ideal for drinking over the next decade.
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- Robert Parker
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